The other morning, Pinta wanted to help Santa Maria make scrambled eggs, so she pulled a chair into the kitchen and stood on it in order to reach the counter. As her mother taught her how to crack an egg, I thought of a passage I had read recently in Gabrielle Hamilton’s captivating memoir, “Blood, Bones & Butter.”
At one point, Hamilton’s sister, Melissa who was then an editor at Saveur magazine, had a chance to cook an omelet with the legendary chef Andre Soltner. She described the scene:
“With two hands, he split the egg open and deposited its contents into a bowl. With each thumb, he reached into each half of the shell and scraped out the remaining albumen that tends to cling to the membrane until he had thoroughly cleaned out the egg. He said, ‘When I was growing up, this is how my mother got thirteen eggs out of the dozen.’”
By the way, I have a soft spot for Gabrielle Hamilton: it was at her restaurant, Prune, that I ate what I have termed the Fly Sky High Kale Salad. Or more accurately, what Santa Maria labeled as such. If you like making that dish at home, do yourself a favor and go to Prune and order it there at least once. They, obviously, are pros.